Residenza del Lago

IMG_6948

Residenza del Lago, we were recommended this restaurant while recently visiting the Cieck winery in Canavese. Our lunch was excellent!

It doesn't look like much from the street, but as you enter you walk into paradise through a lovely flower garden that takes you to the restaurant and hotel.

Frederico, the owner, greeted us and showed us to our table.  He is a sommelier and very passionate about food and wine.  This was confirmed by the over 400 bottle, well chosen, fair priced, winelist.

We started with a gift from the chef of little crostini topped with a tuna patè, followed by 3 types of delicious homemade bread; nut, sun-dried tomato and olive.  

We chose the smaller tasting menu of
Tajarin con Coniglio e Sugo di Pepperoni Pasta with a Red Bell Pepper and Rabbit sauce followed by Cosciotto di Maile con Senape e Miele con Spinaci e Patate al Forno Ham with a Mustard and Honey sauce with Braised Spinach and Roasted Potatoes.

Don't forget to save room for their desserts!

Everything we tasted was fresh, seasonal and made in house.

Just a half hour north of Torino in the Canavese wine region, this is a perfect place for a few quiet, relaxing days near
Lago di Candia Lake Candia, which is a few minutes drive from the hotel.

The rooms are beautiful with arched red brick ceilings, nicely restored while keeping the style and feeling of an ancient Canavese farm house.
IMG_6965
Tajarin with Rabbit and Pepper Sauce
IMG_6971 - Version 2
Perfect Pork
IMG_6964
Even the bread was homemade
IMG_6961
Huge wine list

That was fun but ......

We are back, The mother board and video card died on Robert's computer but thanks to Apple who covered the costs the great folks at Pixel Assistenza in Torino all is well again

Never a Dull Moment

Alpini
Our little village of Neive is getting ready to be overrun/taken by the Alpini of Langa. Our local chapter
is busy stringing banners and hanging flags up all over town. Neive was chosen to host the annual reunion for chapters from all over the Langhe.


No festival, here in the Langhe, would be complete without the local chapter of 10th Alpini Regiment “Alpini Veci”. These are former members of the elite mountain corps.
Alpini2
Main street was closed for a parade, each town was represented in the parade wearing their
retirement uniforms.
IMG_3006
Even the current active local unit showed up to remind folks what these old guys were capable in
their hay-day.
IMG_1792
As you can see the weather was perfect, warm and sunny.

Birrificio Trunasse

IMG_1468
Ok, it's not wine, but we found a really cool brewery between Fossano and Cuneo in Piedmont. We were driving to Cuneo to pick up our new "Permesso di Soggiorni" and saw the brewery. On the way home we stopped to check it out. What we found was two brothers, one in the bar/dining room and one in the kitchen and great artisanal beer and food!
IMG_1477
After spying on the food coming out of the kitchen (which everything looked yummy) we decided to order a hamburger. To date, we haven't found too many good burgers here and we were very skeptical. What we found was one of the best burgers we have eaten in Italy or America. We started chatting with the owners and found out all the meat is very high end "Piemontese" beef from La Granda in Savigliano CN. The other items on the menu include antipasti of artisanal cheese and salumi, salads, steaks and french fries.
IMG_1467
On the chalkboard was advertising for a single malt scotch tasting in April. If you live nearby or traveling through the neighborhood, we definitely recommend this place. Open Weekdays 6pm to 2am and Weekends 5pm to 1am.
www.birrificiotrunasse.it
Reg. Pedaggio Sottano, 194
Centallo (Frazione San Biagio) CN
IMG_1478

IMG_1473

Signs of Spring

fires
The vines like sunshine, therefore every spring the trees and brush that grow between the vineyard and the street are cut
down. What is not saved for wood heating is burned off next to the road (almost on the road). Chiaro, the firebug, loves
lighting fires, this year she taught our friend Lorenzo what girl scout water is, benzina (diesel).
first ride
Roberts first ride of 2011 was only 6 weeks since his last ride, almost makes winter bearable. Snow on north facing
vineyards is almost gone.
bbq on food deck
First BBQ on the balcony, not bad weather for feb. 10
workers tilt shift
And the strongest sign is that the vineyards are full of growers working there vines.
streets:neive
The streets of Neive alto are clean and dry, waiting for the much needed crush of tourists.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

cottá santa hat

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
Robert, Leslie and Cotta”

will it ever stop raining?

IMG_0009
Was a little tough getting out of the house Monday morning because the piazza
we live on was getting new asphalt. It has been raining for most of November,
this is unusual for the area and we are even getting some small landslides
which usually only happen in the spring.
IMG_3738
When not raining the weather has been non-stop cloudy/foggy, great weather for racking and
cleaning barrels. The view behind Robert is normally spectacular. See photo below.
IMG_3422
This is the same veiw on a clear day, big difference.
IMG_0053
But the crappy weather won’t keep the locals from going to the weekly market.

Sundays at the Socio "Drinking Club"

IMG_0106

Every Sunday at around 11am, we meet our friends at the Socio in
Castagnole delle Lanze. It is especially fun in summer when we can sit
outside and enjoy the view of the surrounding hillsides. Danielle, in photo
above, runs the bar with his family. This is his special cocktail called
“Barbarella” It is dangerous to drink more than one even though you want to.

IMG_0105

Normally we drink a local Arneis and in Italy it is illegal to drink without food
so of course, when you order wine one always gets little plates of snacks
to nibble on. What do you do on Sunday mornings?

OOP'S

bad_driving
This spring we’ve seen a few good reasons for using a tour guide.
This car went off the road in La Morra and crashed into some vines.
IMG_3083
This car was a few weeks earlier and they trusted their GPS while coming
home from dinner in the dark. It had been raining for 3 weeks and very muddy.
The GPS took them down a vineyard road, not a real road and they got stock
in the mud at midnight. The rental car was stuck in the mud for 3 weeks until
it dried out enough for a tractor to pull the car out.

IMG_3091
Had they spent the night in the car they would have woken up to a great view!

Track (Road) Trip to Varenna

IMG_3002
Last week we took Cotta on her first family vacation and train ride to
Lake Como to visit friends from Minnesota. Cotta made about 1,000 new
friends including every train conductor along the way. ( Click for slide show)
IMG_0102
We rode the ferry from Varenna to Bellagio to check out the town
and grab dinner, arriving in Bellagio, by ferry in 20 min. (by car 2 hours)
IMG_0127
Bellagio is a great town for sightseeing. Hidden down every
side street and ally are neat little shops like this very cool
wine bar, the owner Norberto is both charming and very
knowledgeable about his wines.
IMG_0271
Visiting a new area also means checking out the local wine region
Valtellina known for it’s very steep terracing of the vines.
IMG_0240
Along with a few winery tours, Here Fabiana from Nino Negri explaining the
giant cask (Botte) behind us which holds 13,000 bottles of wine she gave
a great tour followed by a tasting of their wines. The wines showed very well
a must try if you can find a bottle.
IMG_0263
Nino Negri winery has a beautiful barrel room with a ton of wine in it.
IMG_0289
Back to our wonderful accommodations to enjoy the sunset with a glass of
vino.
IMG_0297
Thanks Chris and Ray for sharing your town and wines with us. We learned
a lot and had a ton of fun.


Spring has finally sprung

IMG_0047
The sap has started to run bud break is not far behind for this
pruned nebbiolo vine.
IMG_0020
Vineyard work is starting to gear up to full speed. That means every
day the weather is nice they work even on sunday.
IMG_0606
A sure sign of spring the weekly markets are bustling with town folk
buying fresh fruit and veggies.

Where is spring ?

IMG_2875
Woke up to 22” of snow wed morning, the locals are going crazy
they have not seen snow like this in over 40/50 years.
IMG_0445
Just a few days pryer to the snow storm of the century spring was
almost in full swing, green vineyards and clear skies
IMG_0458
We were lucky for our first visitors this year it was sunny and dry for a
vineyard walk given by Tiziana (on right) from cantina Aurelio Settimo.
IMG_0465
Followed by a tasting in the cantina (winery). The wines showed
very well especially the 1999 Barolo Tiziana opened as a treat.
It was a text book perfect Barolo, thank you Tiziana, the nose stayed
with me for a few days.

Robert returns to spring

IMG_0726
After a little de-icing in Mpls. 3 plane rides, 2 trains
and 1 bus Robert is back from the frozen tundra of Minnesota
IMG_0710
The main reason for his short visit, besides catching
up with friends and family was 2 or 3 or ..... trips to
W.C Lounge for sliders.
IMG_0006
And a great filet at Murray’s (Thanks Eric and Jonio)
IMG_0034
My send off dinner at Miesters with hand cut fries was perfect
(thank’s Angie and Larry)
IMG_0269
A visit to Minnesota is not complete with out a drive across a lake to check out the
ice fishing. (no Carlo, the fish don’t come out as frozen fish sticks)

Winter is back

IMG_2569
After our green and warm Christmas we awoke to 10” of snow last thursday
(jan. 7th) but it's melting fast a good thing because robert left a load of wood
for the stuffa in the lift over night oops.
IMG_2583
At dinner last night with a group of friends who are all very wine savvy,
We ordered Barbera for the table by the carafe something unheard
of in the states especially for a bunch of wine geeks. The wine
was great and cheap its good to live in wine country

Two down One to go

IMG_2555
With Christmas and New Years over, next up La Befana on Jan 6th the big day
for kids. On New Years eve we stopped into our favorite aperitivo spot and we were
reminded of one of many cultural differences, just like the states, every restaurant
is full but here a small table is 15 and it is not uncommon to see 30 or more at one table.
IMG_2509
One of the joy’s of living in a famous wine region surrounded by wineries,
fun surprises show up at your door when you’re out shopping.
IMG_2206
Now that January is upon us the growers are buying rootstock for
planting in feb/mar, the ground never freezes solid here
( a very good thing)

Warm & Green Christmas

IMG_2518
No white Christmas for us, with mid 50’s cotta was very glad to be on her sun deck
IMG_2516
Took this photo from our kitchen balcony Christmas morning. What a difference a
year makes check out the photo below taken one year ago.
IMG_8221
We much prefer the “regular” weather were experiencing this winter last year was
almost minnesota like.
IMG_2505
Is he coming or going ?

Santa

IMG_2353
No, it’s not santa doing pull-ups to drop a few pounds. The Christmas decoration
of choice in Italy is Santa climbing a ladder usually hanging over a balcony.
IMG_2351
Another sign of Christmas approaching is the ever popular panettone in shop
windows.
IMG_2338
This is our new foodie friend Dilip, who moved here to Piemonte from India to mary a
local girl. He and his wife Maria opened an Indian restaurant in Alba a few years
ago. Dilip offered to give Chiaro some lessons, so we threw a party.
IMG_2347
It was a hit! The British, Peruvians, Indians, Americans and the local Piemontese
loved it.

Turkey Day


IMG_2182
Happy Thanksgiving! Enjoying some aperitivo bubbles before the big feast.
IMG_2187
An expat dinner (sorry about the bad photo) alcohol may have been an
contributing factor.
IMG_2185
American with a scottish touch. Cameron (the Scot) did a great job, he
introduced us to Bread Sauce, Fried Bread Crumbs and Yorkshire Puddings,
along with a perfectly cooked turkey, sausage stuffing and roasted potatoes and
root vegetables.Our other English friends brought sides of Cheesy broccoli and
Sauteed Red Cabbage.
IMG_2220
What a difference a year makes looking at our house through vines with no
snow on the ground, very glad to be heading into dec. snow-free!

French fries on pizza?

CIMG3335
A very popular pizza topping in Italy is french fries, very strange to us but the locals
love it. We haven’t tried this yet, we are very afraid. Funny thing is some call this “American
style”?
IMG_1973
Chiaro is very happy that we found “single field/free range” potatoes at the Alba market,
even better than Idaho
IMG_0093
Hard to believe but Robert has become the local go to tech guy (mac only)
“ A hacked iphone is a happy iphone “
IMG_1958
Last of our fall colors, now we start the rainy/foggy season.

Yet another festival

IMG_1542
Just when we thought we've seen every festival we came across the "CUGNA"
Festival in the small town of Coazzolo near Neive. We bought 3 cungnas and 2
Salsa di peperoncino that should hold us till spring.
IMG_1532
Wow not many people for such a warm/sunny day then we realized lunch
was not over yet so all the Italians were at home eating sunday lunch. We were
able to taste all the different home made cugnas in only 45 min. a record for
Italy. cugna is a breakfast preserve for toast made from grapes and hazelnuts.
IMG_1537
Even Cotta got in on the action meeting some of the town characters.
IMG_0756
Next up, The total stomach festival in Barolo of course yummy !!!

Birthdays and Tastings

IMG_1011
Chiaro celebrating her 40th at her friend Chiara's 50th surprise birthday party at
La Ciau del Tornavento (way to go Bob). Yes that is a freshly sciabolaed
bottle of Cristal however we still prefer Bille.
IMG_1059
birthday(week): wine at the Piacere Barbaresco tasting with our friend and
Treiso neighbor, Andrea. The tasting was a hit, they decorated the elementary
school gym like a vineyard.
IMG_0875
A new event this year at the tasting was a hit. The 9 glasses in the background
had extracts of veris wine smells for to to try identifying, if you got all 9 correct
you win a bottle of Barbarecso
IMG_0873
Zero tolerance in ITALY (NOT) you have to love a country that has a huge
wine tasting in their elementary school caffeteria along with a temp wine shop
in the front office. The tasting lasted through monday so, no school !!

BBQ Langhe style

IMG_0608
Chiaro teaching some newbies how to properly sciabola a bottle of bubbles
during a BBQ at our friend Stefano's home. Behind her is his outdoor kitchen
and dinning room, common here in Langhe because of the hot and long summers.
IMG_0605
Stefano cooked a giant salmon in 15 pounds of salt in his wood-fired pizza oven
it was so good chiaro even ate some !!!!
IMG_0648
The local cafe banter is all talking about the first lady wearing
short pants, they all want our opion hmmmm. well.......

Still hot and sunny

Hazelnuts everywhere

IMG_0666
The hazelnut harvest is almost over pictured is a sweeper style harvester
dumping its load into a tractor trailer.
IMG_0718
Lucky for us (not ) a vacuum style harvester is used in our back yard.
IMG_0711
The dust is incredible good thing harvest lasts only 2 or 3 days.
IMG_0685
Another load.
IMG_0616
Coming soon to a jar of nutella near you.

living in Italy

IMG_0219
Sometimes Robert can't wait for the wine to be bottled. So he grabs a
glass and helps himself to some nebbiolo.
IMG_0367
Our local "convenience " store just expanded there hours now we only have
to remember the 3 days we can't get stuff after 12:30. This is great, open 51 hours
per week, only 117 more hours and we will have our fist 24/7 store in Piemonte.
IMG_0096
The only thing 24 hour in Italy is the cigarette vending
machines.
IMG_0244
This is the closest thing to coffee "to go" in Italy and is only done when
working the bottling line.
IMG_0348
When they say wood fired pizza they mean it !

No Gas &^%#$#@

IMG_0017
All the gas station's went on strike and we didn't get the memo.
Our car was on empty so we biked to our friend's house in Neive
for a pool day.
(above: Robert trying to get rid of his biker tan).
IMG_0112
Our friend Richard cooks us a pool side bbq dinner.
IMG_0116
IMG_0124
Look's just like a midwest BBQ(bbq chicken with Chiaro's homemade
sauce, sausage from our favorite butcher, and veggie kebabs).
IMG_0075
New word of the week sciopero (strike)
IMG_0074
The fist hardware store Robert biked to for a gas can was closed for
fiera (family holiday). Finally found a gas can but the gas stations didn't
open again for another 2 days! We didn't know about the strike and were
stuck for 3 days(a mini summer vacation).

JAZZ & La Morra Barolo

IMG_9495
Jazz is very popular here in Alba it's as if we've moved to Chicago except the
shows here are usually free, always outdoors and wine is everywhere.
IMG_9500
If we don't show up at a tasting with puppy cotta we are not let in.
IMG_9524
Cotta greeting her friend Nicola who organized today's tasting of barolo's
(2005) from the sub region La Morra. Below are a few standouts from todays
tasting (no special order)
IMG_9507
AURELIO SETTIMO
IMG_9503
I BASTIONI
IMG_9521
STROPPIANA
IMG_9505
There was only 720 bottles of IL LAURO made. Very strong
eucalyptus in the nose was catnip for Robert.
IMG_9515
SAN BIAGIO also makes a Cru Barbaresco from Montersino
the vineyard our home is in, we're exited to try this wine soon.

Word of the week

IMG_8969
Our vocabulary is one word stronger. After a snowy winter and spring
rains there has been many FRANA (land slide) this spring.

IMG_9007
Some are small
IMG_9131
Others are not so small

Books and Rain

IMG_8953
Lots and Lots of rain the last few weeks. Inside the house it still feels
winter. BRRRRR!
The vines are growing like crazy, we hope we don't have 6 weeks of
rain like last spring.
IMG_8953j
We found a cool new book to keep us busy while we're
stuck in the house. It's an Italian-English dictionary
only for wine and vineyards words. More than 2,000 words
in the specialized dictionary. We love it.
"From Vine to Wine" by Kenneth Crofutt & Belinda Ellender.
IMG_8941
We treated ourselves to Robert's favorite kebabs in Alba a few days ago.
They also have good pizza.
IMG_8943




Market Day


IMG_8747
Thanks to a tip from our friends at Hotel Castello di Sinio we found this great little
imported food shop in the back of a large supermarket well hidden on a side
street in the town of Bra. Tonight we had our first pot stickers in over 2 years
and they also have black beans, cilantro, real pickles, rice wine vinegar and hot chile sauce.
Our list of what we miss from the US keeps getting shorter.
IMG_8743
Cotta meets new boyfriend " Otto " at the Bra market, he's two, Cotta just
turned 1
IMG_8722
At our regular espresso stop La Cantinetta on the Piazza Caduti in Bra we
spotted this wifi sign. Technology is arriving very slowly to Piemonte
(which is part of the charm of living here)

Robert's First Bike Ride of the Year

IMG_8458
Robert just made February for his first ride of the year. Last
year it was January 27, one month earlier. This has been an unusually
cold, long and snowy winter for the Langhe. Nobody can remember
a winter like this. Still mild for Minnesota standards but cold for here.
Today was 60 degrees F and sunny. Lots of people out and about.
IMG_8500
Treats from America
The longer you live as an expat, more and more "things" drop off your
gotta get from the USA list(Robert barely thinks about White Castle
anymore). However, the items that remain on the list become an even
bigger obsession. Our friend Cameron just returned from the States
with many treats for us!

Treats from France

IMG_8381
While Robert enjoys some great bubbles (and working very hard to compose
great photos) Chiaro along with our friends Weston and Elisa are cooking
vegi curry. They just returned from Burgundy with great treats to share: cheese,
mustard, and of course, wine. It was all fabulous, especially the wine.
IMG_8385
The REAL thing !! another foodie moment
IMG_8378
Our fist time trying this producer Michel Lafarge this wine was a reminder
that wines like this only come from a very small piece of real estate in the
world.
IMG_8387
Who say's you can't get ethnic food in Italy? You just have to cook it yourself!

Internet .......Finally

IMG_8262
After 1 year, 3 months and 13 days....we finally have internet at home,
but who's counting.
IMG_8117
Like the rest of the world, it's been a strange winter here too.
Lots of snow and colder than usual. We've noticed that the locals
deal with snow differently than Minnesotans. They treat it more like
rain and use umbrellas!
IMG_8269
We found another new great wine at pizza night(didn't we just hear
somewhere that Italians don't drink wine with pizzas? that's totally untrue!)
Anyway, the wine was great and it was refreshing to drink outside of
Piedmont(not that we don't love the wines).
Here's a link to the wine's website:
http://www.stmichael.it/uk/default.asp
IMG_8282
Pizza night wouldn't be complete without Chiaro showing off the finer
art of sciabolaing to an eager new student, this time, our friend Richard.

Christmas eve


IMG_8079
A new Christmas tradition, wine bar hopping(very different from bar
hopping) in Alba. What started out to be a easy going short evening
because most of Alba closes at 9:00 on Christmas Eve changed after
we saw a flyer for an outdoor concert...

IMG_8089
Gospel in Alba ??? we decide to wait and see if it's good
IMG_8075
Looks ok so we give it a try, but first we need to find an open bar of any
kind to kill 45 min. till show time.
IMG_8082
Complete success, the show was great! Live Gospel in Alba, Italy,
a little strange, however very cool and a cold 40 degrees we are losing our
Minnesota blood: 40 is the new 5 below.

Very Big Day !!

IMG_8015
After trying for 14 months chiaro get's her Carta d'Identita'!
Robert is next but his will be much easier being married
to one who already has one.
IMG_8018
Very cool
IMG_7993
Puppy cotta inspecting her namesake wine, she thinks 2008 is
going to be a great vintage!
IMG_7997
Mont Viso looking good from the kitchen window, however our
"pizza hut " looks cold and wants to be used.
IMG_8006
We have had lots of snow so far this year. But the temp's never
drop's below frezzing so no ice fishing . looking north towards barbaresco
and the swiss alps from treiso